Today, Rob and I got to play with our
food. We spent the morning with Norma Naranjo, owner and instructor
of The Feasting Place (Ohkay Owingeh, NM, Phone:505-927-0456). The
Feasting Place is actually located in Norma's beautiful home and it
is a cooking class featuring the method of baking in an horno, or
adobe oven, that was used traditionally by the ancestral Native
Americans of Ohkay Owingeh, from whom Norma is descended Norma's
husband, Hutch, builds hornos, and Rob got to spend some time with
him learning just how that happens.
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Norma mixing the empanada crust |
When we arrived at The Feasting Place,
we were greeted by Norma, who offered us coffee and chatted with us
while we waited for the others to arrive. When Norma found out that
Rob is an architect, she told us that she is contacted by many
architects who are interested in the construction of the horno. We
met her husband and he and Rob were out the door to discuss how one
is built. Soon, the others arrived. Three lovely ladies, Melody,
Dominica and Beth, who were on a road-trip together. We all introduced
ourselves and then it was time to get down to business. (I have
verbal permission to post everyone's pictures.)
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Making empanadas |
The first thing we did was make
empanadas. Norma demonstrated how to mix the dough. Using her hand as
a scoop she extracted around four pounds of Crisco from a huge
container and placed it in a large, well used, metal bowl. As she
kneaded in the approximately eight cups of flour, she explained that
she doesn't know how to make a small amount. She added the cold
water, by feel, not measurement, mixed it well and broke off a piece.
She rolled out the dough to about 1/8 inch thickness, and with the
lid to the Crisco container, cut out a perfect circle. She proceeded
to fill the dough with the plum mixture that she prepared ahead of
time, showed us how to fold over and seal the little pockets of
goodness, cut small holes in the top, and sprinkle with a cinnamon sugar
mixture.Then she handed each of us a hunk of dough and we got busy
rolling, cutting, sealing and sprinkling ourselves. She's also
had an apple filling.
Next Rob and Melody began spreading out
prepared pizza dough and loading it up with an Italian sausage, some
New Mexican chilies and mozzarella cheese. While they were busy with
that, Norma showed the other two ladies and I how to put together an
enchilada casserole using a chili sauce that was simmering on the
stove. Dominica and Beth jumped in on that and I helped Norma load up
pans of homemade bread, that had been rising since before we arrived,
onto long boards to transport to the horno. When everything was
assembled and ready to go into the horno we moved outside.
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Everything into the horno! |
Hutch removed the coals from the
oven as Norma explained that the horno is heated up by building a
fire inside and allowing it to burn for a couple of hours. For breads
and dishes like the enchiladas, the coals are removed, but for meat
dishes they are pushed to the back of the oven.
We loaded the horno with bread first.
Norma pushed the pans of bread to the back of the oven. Then the
empanadas went in, followed by the pizzas in the center and the
enchiladas near the front and to the side. As these baked, Norma told
us that the oven will hold up to 60 loaves of bread. Traditionally,
the bread is placed directly onto the surface of the horno, but she
uses aluminum pans, as her mother started doing when she was young,
to avoid having ash on the bottom of the loaves.
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Inside the horno |
It wasn't long before we could see
the cheese melting on the pizzas and the tops of the bread loaves
beginning to brown. In about 15 minutes the pizzas were browned and
ready to come out. We cut into them and started eating. This was our
appetizer. Not long after, the enchiladas came out
bubbling and the empanadas were ready. The bread took another 20
minutes or so (about 40 minutes total). We took turns passing around cameras and taking pictures by the horno, while we waited.
Norma informed us that we would be extracting the bread from the oven
ourselves.
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Perfect pizza |
We could tell the bread was almost done
by the yeasty aroma wafting from the horno. Finally, Norma proclaimed
that the bread was ready. She showed us how to pull it out and handed
me the peel. I was unable to get the peel under the pans, but because
it had a hook shape on one side, I managed to pull a few pans of
bread out by hooking and dragging them to the front opening. We took
turns and Dominica was a natural because of her Italian heritage.
Each loaf was dusted to remove ash and placed in a large tub, then
taken inside and laid out on a white sheet placed across one end of
the table, just as, Dominica said, her mother would do.
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Removing bread from the horno |
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Rob and I take a turn |
With everything out of the horno it was
time to feast. And feast we did! Norma had prepared for us a chicken and
garbanzo bean stew, tamales and a gorgeous salad with various garden
greens, strawberries and nuts dressed in a homemade vinaigrette,
served up with Norma's double-dimpled, ever present smile. We had all
of that in addition to the enchiladas and bread. Everything was
delicious and we were more than satisfied. So much so, that not one of us room left for the empanadas. That was not a problem, though. We
got to take the leftovers with us!
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Beth, Melody and Dominica |
Norma bagged up a loaf of bread for
each of us. She had us mark the empanadas as we made them so that we
would know which ones were ours. Those we also bagged up. She sent
the rest of the enchiladas and pizza home with us. The stew went home
with the ladies.
Hugs were handed out and we left with
exchanges of email addresses and promises to exchange pictures, and
assurances from Norma that she would provide any of the recipes by
email. We just needed to email her and let her know which recipes we
wanted.
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Norma and Hutch Naranjo |
This was such a delightful way to learn
about the Native American culture of the region. Norma and her
husband are beautiful, gentle people who truly welcome people into
their home. It was a joy spending the morning with them and getting
to meet their grandson, who joined us as the bread was about to come
out of the horno. He's a sweet and personable boy.
If you ever find yourself in New Mexico
anywhere near the Espanola area, check with Norma and see if she has
a class coming up. Classes are $75 per person and well worth it.
You'll have a great time, learn so much and you'll leave feeling like
you've made real friends. It was such a great experience. To learn
more or get in on a class, go to
http://www.thefeastingplace.com/
or email Norma at
norma@thefeastingplace.com.